I have no idea how, but even in Soviet times, Russians knew everything
about international fashion—we just couldn’t get our hands on it. Our
country was completely closed off. Even if you had money, you couldn’t
buy designer labels because the stores didn’t carry them. So, following
the latest trends from afar, we had our clothes made to measure by local
craftsmen, or we sewed them ourselves. When Russia finally opened up in
the late ’80s and early ’90s, people tried their best to be stylish but
were understandably clumsy in their efforts. Imagine a child who has
been long forbidden sweets and is suddenly granted full access to the
dessert table! To be fair, it also wasn’t the most elegant moment in
fashion history. Businesswomen wore broad Dynasty-like shoulders,
students were into grunge, and rich socialites had gone totally baroque.
I remember seeing the wife of a pharmaceutical king at the opening of
the Thierry Mugler boutique in Moscow wearing a glittering silver
minidress, her hair done up with gerbera flowers and a diamond tiara. I
also recall the long queues that formed when Versace opened its shop
here. They were like the lines that people had stood on in earlier times
for butter or sausage. Dior, Chanel, Fendi, and Dolce & Gabbana
followed soon after. Hermès arrived in 2000, providing the ultimate vote
of confidence for the fledgling Russian economy
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